The Superior Surmullet: A Fish with Attitude

by Roger B. Rueda

Let’s get one thing straight—not all fish are created equal. Some are overrated, some are forgettable, and then there is the surmullet—the rock star of the sea, the alpha of shallow waters, and the undeniable king of the dinner table. If you have never tasted this glorious fish, then I must ask—what are you doing with your life? You are depriving yourself of one of the simplest yet most profound joys known to humankind. This is not just seafood. This is a revelation.

Now, let’s talk about the surmullet. Like people, it comes in different varieties—some mild and forgettable, others bold and unapologetic. Some fish are timid, their flavors so delicate they practically apologize for existing. Then there are the real stars—the ones that leave an impression, hitting your taste buds with the force of a perfectly crafted argument, one that lingers long after the last bite. But let’s not beat around the bush—the reddish surmullet, when cooked, is the undisputed champion. And if you want to enjoy it the way the Ilonggos do, you must have it as Pinamalhan.

Varieties: Not All Surmullets Are Worthy

Now, before you start thinking, "Fish is fish, right?"—stop. That kind of thinking is precisely why some people live a flavorless life. Surmullet, like people, varies in character.

The Pale Pretenders  are the lighter-colored surmullets that, while still delicious, do not quite have the same richness as their more vibrantly-hued relatives. Their taste is mild, almost too polite—like they’re afraid to offend your palate. Best for frying or grilling but nothing revolutionary.

The Golden Middle Ground  have a bit more personality, a slight nuttiness in their flesh that makes them ideal for simple steaming or sautéing. They can hold their own in a good stew, but still, they do not scream excellence.

The Reddish Surmullet, The True Conqueror, is the one that separates the seafood novices from the connoisseurs. When cooked, its flesh turns from delicate pink to a deep, rich white, with a depth of flavor that makes lesser fish bow down in shame. Its meat is firm yet succulent, absorbing seasonings like a sponge and delivering a taste so exquisite it should come with a warning label: May cause intense cravings and sudden bouts of culinary enlightenment.

Why Pinamalhan Is The Best Way To Cook It

For those unfamiliar with Ilonggo cuisine, Pinamalhan is not just another dish—it is a way of life. It is what happens when logic meets tradition, when practicality meets brilliance.

Pinamalhan is essentially paksiw without the unnecessary water. It is slow-cooked in vinegar until the fish absorbs every ounce of flavor, its oils mixing with the tang of the vinegar and the heat of native spices. The result? A dish so bold, so unapologetically rich, that even the most skeptical eater will be converted.

And the reddish surmullet? It was born for this dish. The meat, already flavorful, becomes infused with the sharpness of the vinegar, the umami of garlic, and the depth of soy sauce (if you’re feeling fancy). The skin crisps ever so slightly, locking in moisture, ensuring that every bite is a perfect balance of tang, salt, and natural fish sweetness. It does not just feed you—it makes you re-evaluate every mediocre fish dish you have ever had.

Final Thoughts: Elevate Your Seafood Standards

So the next time you go to the market and see surmullet, do not settle for the pale, indecisive ones. Seek out the reddish champion—the one that knows it is superior. And do not, under any circumstances, disrespect it by steaming or frying it into oblivion. Cook it as Pinamalhan, the Ilonggo way, and let your taste buds experience what real fish should taste like.

Because in a world full of bland, forgettable meals, you deserve better. You deserve the surmullet.